Goulash Soup; Gulyásleves

(about  8-10 servings)

Earlier this summer I was gifted some Hungarian paprika from Budapest. I have been saving most of my stash for this goulash soup which I held off making until the local sweet peppers were in season. I used a combination of Carmen and pimiento peppers. The pimiento peppers are one of my favorites. They are sweet, have intensely colored red flesh which is crisp and meaty.

Traditionally beef shin is used for this soup. I swapped that out for beef sirloin tip because it looked quite good at the market this week.

I like to prepare this soup over a two day period because it tastes so much better the day after when the flavors have a chance to meld.

2 tbsp butter, bacon drippings or lard
3 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
1 large carrot, finely chopped 
2 lbs pimiento, Carmen or red bell peppers, chopped
3 lbs beef sirloin tip cut into 3/4 inch cubes

3 tbsp sweet Hungarian paprika

1 tbsp hot Hungarian paprika or 2 3/4 tsp sweet Hungarian paprika and 1/4 tsp cayenne

1 tbsp caraway seeds, lightly crushed

3 tbsp gluten free masa harina or all purpose flour (if gluten isn't an issue)
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp dried thyme

1 tsp salt

1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper

2 bay leaves

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

2 tbsp tomato paste

8 cups sodium reduced beef broth

1 1/2 lbs Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch cubes

chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Melt the butter in a large pot with a tight fitting lid, over medium heat. Stir in the onions and cook until they are soft and golden in color; about 10-12 minutes.

Stir in the garlic, carrot and peppers. Cook another 5 minutes, then stir in the beef, sweet and hot paprika, caraway seeds, masa harina or flour, cumin, thyme, salt and pepper.

Cook until the beef loses its redness.

Add the bay leaves, vinegar, tomato paste and beef broth. Bring the soup to a gentle simmer. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to low. Cook for about 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender.

Remove from heat and cool in the pot. Refrigerate overnight.

The next day about 50 minutes before you intend to serve this. Heat up the soup. Stir in the potatoes and cook for about 40 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if needed.

Serve and garnish with chopped parsley.

Paprikás Csirke; Chicken Paprikash

(4 -5 servings)

There are those who insist lard is necessary when preparing chicken paprikash. My paternal grandmother who was Hungarian used lard exclusively in her kitchen. She would have used it in this dish.

Whenever I make chicken paprikash, I use skinless and boneless chicken thighs. I don't even bother frying them. I just lay the chicken over the vegetable mixture which has been sauteed in butter or olive oil. This time I used regular bone-in chicken pieces and I wanted to fry them over high heat in order to crisp up the skin. I used lard, curious if it would make a difference in terms of flavor. I only used a small amount; about two teaspoons or so because the skin rendered plenty of additional fat.

When the paprikash was finished I couldn't tell the chicken had been fried with lard, the flavor also didn't come through the following day when I reheated the leftovers. Perhaps I needed to use more lard, but I didn't see the point. I prefer using the least amount of fat or oil and chicken paprikash is often finished with sour cream which renders this dish plenty rich.

Whether you use lard or oil, chicken paprikash is easy to prepare and very delicious. It's often served with tiny dumplings called spätzle or noodles. I like it with rice.

6-8 chicken thighs, (about 3 lbs)
salt and pepper
up to 1 tbsp lard or coconut oil
1 very large yellow onion, chopped (about 1 lb)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 green or red bell pepper, chopped (seeds removed)
1 tbsp double concentrated tomato paste

3 tbsp sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tsp hot Hungarian paprika
2/3 cup chicken broth

1/2 tsp *tapioca flour (optional)
1/2 cup sour cream

Rinse and pat dry the chicken thighs. Trim off any excess fat or skin. Sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat the lard in a large pot (with lid) over medium-high heat. Carefully add the chicken thighs, skin side down in a single layer (you might have to do this in batches although mine all fit nice and snug) and fry until the skin is crispy and golden; about 4-8 minutes. Flip them over and fry another two minutes. Remove the chicken to a platter and set aside.

Drain off all but a teaspoon or two of fat from the pot.  Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onion and garlic.  Saute until the onion softens; about 5 minutes. Add the chopped bell pepper and cook another 5 minutes or until that has softened.

Stir in the tomato paste, paprika and chicken broth. The mixture will be very thick. Don't be tempted to add more broth, the sauce will thin out once the chicken has braised for a while. When the vegetable mixture begins to simmer, reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Place the reserved chicken on top, skin side up and cover the pot tightly with a lid and cook for about 1 to 1 1 /2 hours or until the chicken is very tender. I like to cook it until the meat is ready to fall off the bones.

Remove the chicken to a serving bowl and cover loosely with foil.

Combine the tapioca flour (if using) with the sour cream. * I like to add a small amount of starch because it keeps the sour cream from curdling if the temperature gets too high. If you decide to omit it, then take care to only heat the sauce through after stirring in the sour cream. Do not allow the sauce to simmer.

Temper the sour cream mixture by stirring in a few large spoonfuls of the hot sauce before adding the sour cream to the pot.

Cook over low heat while stirring until the sauce thickens slightly; about 3 minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning, if needed

Serve.

Almás Pite; Hungarian Apple Cake

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I have eaten broccoli with oyster sauce almost every day this past week. I can't seem to get enough of it and  I haven't even tired of it yet. I swapped out green beans one night which were good, but not as good as the broccoli which I love. I decided to bake today so I would at least have something to post about.

My grandmother made this apple cake which is quite popular in Hungary. It reminds me a bit of apple pie in that the filling is in the middle and the pastry is a sweetened version of the classic shortcrust pastry.

This cake is quite easy to make if you have a food processor; both for grating the apples as well as making the pastry dough. I like to add raisins which have been soaked in rum to the apple filling whereas my grandmother added ground walnuts to hers.

Palacsinta; Hungarian Crepes

(8 x 9" crepes)

Along Bloor Street in Toronto, between Spadina and Bathurst used to be several Hungarian restaurants. I remember having palacsinta filled with apricot jam and dusted with icing sugar there. It's been years since I had any, so I made some this weekend.

Palacsinta are basically crepes with a filling; often sweet although they can be savory as well. My grandmother used to mix sparkling mineral water into the batter just before cooking them. She said that made them lighter.

2 eggs
1 tsp sugar
pinch of salt
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup unbleached flour
up to 1/4 cup sparkling water

butter (or oil) for frying

apricot spread
icing sugar, for dusting
2 tbsp walnuts, toasted and chopped

In a bowl whisk together the eggs, sugar and salt until they are frothy.

Whisk in the milk and flour and keep whisking until you have a smooth, lump-free batter. Set aside for about 15 minutes.

Heat a small amount of butter or oil in a skillet.

Stir the mineral water into the batter in small amounts until you have the consistency of thick cream.

Ladle a small amount of batter into the skillet and tilt the skillet back and forth until the batter covers the bottom evenly. Cook the crepe until the edges brown and the top begins to feel dry. Carefully flip the crepe and cook the other side for a bit.

For each palacsinta, keep adding small amounts of butter or oil as needed until all the batter is used up.

Spread a small amount of apricot spread over 1/3 of each crepe and roll them up, beginning with the side where you've placed the spread. Dust them with icing sugar and sprinkle with walnuts.

The palacsinta can be served warm or cold.

Gulyás; Hungarian Goulash

(6-8 servings)

This was a dish my father made frequently. He liked to vary it by swapping out the beef occasionally for pork. He even made it with pork tenderloin once, which I remember being very good.

The main thing which remained consistent for him was the ratio of onion to meat. He told me it was very important to use equal weights. He liked to add tomato juice to his goulash (considered sacrilege by some) whereas I prefer to add a large can of diced tomatoes instead.

I don't remember if he added caraway seeds or not; I do know my grandmother added them to hers. I used to really dislike the taste of them, and was terribly disappointed if any turned up in a goulash or a nice loaf of rye bread. In recent years they have grown on me and I often find myself adding caraway seeds to my goulash; the flavour just seems to belong there.

1/4 lb bacon, diced
2-3 large yellow onions, chopped (about 2 lbs)
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup sweet Hungarian paprika
1-2 tsp hot Hungarian paprika
1/2 tsp caraway seeds, (optional)
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 lbs beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2" cubes
1 28 oz can diced tomatoes with juice
1 bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 bay leaves
2 tsp Better than Beef Bouillon, or 2 cubes beef bouillon
2 large waxy potatoes, cubed (about 1 lb)

cooked egg noodles, (optional)
sour cream and chopped fresh parsley, to garnish, (optional)

Fry the bacon in a soup pot until it gets crispy. Remove some of the rendered fat if it looks like there's too much. Add the onions and garlic, reduce the heat a bit and cook until they begin to turn a golden brown. Stir in the paprika, caraway seeds and black pepper. Add the beef and stir until it's well coated with the onion and paprika mixture. Continue to cook, stirring for about 5 minutes until the meat loses it's redness.



Then add the tomatoes, bell pepper, bay leaves, and bouillon. Reduce the heat even further, to the lowest setting, cook covered for about 2 - 2 1/2hrs.

Add the potatoes and cook another hour or until the meat is very tender. Check and adjust the seasoning.

Serve over cooked egg noodles or with bread. Garnish with sour cream and parsley, if desired.

Gombapörkölt; Hungarian Mushroom Stew

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(about 4-6 servings)

My Hungarian grandmother used to make this stew. I wish I had paid more attention back then. She died about 15 years ago, and the last time I saw her was easily 3-4 years before that.

photo: www.traveladventures.org

She lived in Vienna in a small apartment, walking distance from Schönbrunn Palace. We often went there on the weekends for long walks on the beautiful grounds, (I started school in Vienna and lived with my grandparents during that time).

My version doesn't seem quite as good as the one my grandmother made. I'm never sure, if it's not enough salt or the brand of paprika, but I make it regardless, and think of her while I eat it. She had the softest skin, and always smelled of Lily of the Valley.

1 tbsp canola oil (my grandmother used lard)
1 clove garlic, minced
1 large sweet onion, diced
2 lbs mushrooms, sliced
1 red or green bell pepper, diced
2 tbsp flour
1 1/2 - 2 tbsp Hungarian sweet paprika
1 1/2 tsp Hungarian hot paprika
1/2 cup cold water
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 tsp Better Than Bouillon Organic Mushroom Base
3/4 cup plain yogurt
1/4 cup sour cream
splash of wine, (optional; I just happened to have some)
small handful fresh parsley, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the garlic and cook for about a minute, then add the onion. Continue cooking until the onion  takes on an amber hue.

Add the mushrooms and red pepper. Stir and cook until the mushrooms begin to soften.

Combine the flour and paprika in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the cold water, tomato paste and mushroom base, and whisk until smooth.

Pour this over the mushroom mixture. Lower the heat and cover the saucepan. Allow to simmer gently for about 20-25 minutes. Stir occasionally.

Stir in the yogurt, sour cream, wine and parsley until well combined; heat through. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Can be served over cooked rice or egg noodles. I usually just have it on it's own, like soup or stew.

Garnish with additional sour cream and parsley if desired.

Körözött, Hungarian Cheese Spread

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(serves 4)

This is an adaptation of a spread my father used to make. He added almost as much butter as cheese to his, which I consider way too rich. I not only omit the butter, but I replace the cream cheese with neufchatel for a lower fat version. I'm also inclined to add a bit more lemon juice, capers and anchovies as I prefer it fairly robust.

This piquant spread just isn't the same without the anchovies, and I strongly urge you to try them. I have served it to people who think they hate them and to be honest, I don't believe they even realised there were anchovies in it.

8 oz neufchatel cheese
4-8 anchovy fillets, drained
1 tbsp Hungarian paprika
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp caraway seeds

1 tbsp capers
2 tbsp green onion, chopped or chives

Place the neufchatel, anchovy fillets, paprika, lemon juice and caraway seeds into the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth.
 
Scrape down the sides and add the capers and green onions and pulse once or twice until just mixed.
 
Serve with bread or crackers.