Beef Shank Ravioli with Pea Sauce

(about 4-5 servings)

Recently a friend gave me a wonderful cookbook, Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal, by Jennifer McLagan ©2011. It makes for great reading offering up bits of historical and anecdotal details relating to offal, in addition to some really interesting recipes.

Unfortunately these days it's difficult to find a lot of the items covered in this book. When was the last time you came across lung, spleen, heart or testicles? Heck, just a few years ago it took me nearly a month to get my hands on some kidneys in Dallas. Kidneys for crying out loud!!! I spent days on the phone calling butchers in both Fort Worth and Dallas until I found one who carried them. I haven't really come across interesting "odd bits" since leaving Toronto, where nearly 35 years ago those items were common place in butcher shops in Kensington Market or along Bloor street. I remember a Hungarian restaurant that offered sour lung on its menu and several butchers that sold the spongy looking organ in their shops. I had no idea that along with udders, the USDA doesn't consider lung suitable for human consumption. Perhaps with the renewed interest in head to tail cooking, those items might reappear some day.

This recipe for beef shank ravioli was inspired by a recipe from Odd Bits, for deconstructed oxtail ravioli with peas. I have seen oxtail at my local butcher, but they don't always have them so I brought home a piece of beef shank instead. I braised the meat until it fell apart in a sauce which was similar to Jennifer McLagan's. Aside from swapping out the meat, I had to make a few more changes because I didn't have all of the ingredients. I didn't start off with a proper mirepoix as I forgot to bring home celery, and I didn't have access to chervil, so I used parsley instead. I also added some fresh marjoram.

This is a time intensive recipe which I broke down over three days. I prepared the filling the first day and stuffed the ravioli on the second. On the third day I made a delicious pea sauce to go with the flavorful beef shank ravioli.

filling
1 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly cracked black pepper
3/4 lb boneless beef shank
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups dry red wine
1 1/2 tsp low sodium organic Better than Bouillon Beef Base
4 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs marjoram
1/2 tsp dried thyme
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 bay leaf

Heat the oil in a large pot or skillet with a tight fitting lid over medium-high heat. Cut apart the beef shank into four or five pieces and generously season with salt and pepper.

Fry the meat until both sides have nicely browned; the middle will still be raw. Remove the meat and place onto a plate. Set aside.

Add the onion and carrots to the pot or skillet. Reduce the heat and stir the vegetable mixture in order to scrape up the browned bits. Cook until the vegetables have softened and begin to caramelize.

Stir in the wine, Better than Bouillon, parsley, marjoram, thyme, garlic and bay leaf. Return the meat and any juices that have formed on the plate.

Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot or skillet and braise for about 3 1/2 hours or until the meat is fork tender.  Halfway through, turn the meat over and add a small amount of water if the mixture seems too dry.

Remove the lid and continue to cook until the sauce thickens. You want most of the liquid to have evaporated, yet still have the meat remain nice and moist. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if needed. Remove from heat.

Cool, remove the parsley and marjoram sprigs and bay leaf. Shred the meat with a fork. At this point the filling can be wrapped and refrigerated for several days until you are ready to prepare the dough and stuff the ravioli.

Refrigerate the filling for at least an hour before stuffing the ravioli. This helps firm it up.

dough
2 1/4 cups unbleached flour
2-3 large eggs
water, as needed

Combine the flour and eggs in a large bowl or a food processor. Add enough water until you have a soft dough. If you are using the food processor, then run the motor until the dough forms into a ball. If you are doing this by hand, then knead it a few times once it all comes together.

Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 30-40 minutes.

Remove a small piece of dough and roll it out thin into a rectangle on a lightly floured surface. Repeat with another piece of dough about the same size and set aside. (I used a pasta machine and put it through a setting of 5 or 6 (out of 9).) If you are rolling it out by hand, this would roughly equate to about 1/12 or so of an inch. I had some pasta dough left over, so don't worry if you can't get it that thin.

Place heaping teaspoonfuls of filling about 1/2 an inch apart on one of the pasta sheets. Lightly spritz with water or brush water around the filling. Place the second sheet of dough over the first and gently press down to seal and remove as much air as possible.

Cut the ravioli apart with a pastry or pizza cutter. Place the finished ravioli on a floured surface and repeat until you have used up all of the dough and filling.

At this point you can freeze the ravioli by placing them on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet in a single layer, not touching and freezing them for at least 3 hours.

sauce
1/2 stick butter
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 cup peas
1 tbsp parsley, chopped
1-2 green onion, sliced
1/2 tsp fresh lemon zest
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste
salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Melt the butter over medium heat until it begins to froth and then add the garlic. Stir for about 30 seconds, then add the peas. Lower the heat a touch and cook, stirring for about two minutes.

Stir in the parsley, green onion, lemon zest and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Reduce the heat a bit and drop in the ravioli. Cook for about 4-5 minutes (add 2 minutes if they were frozen).

Serve immediately with the pea sauce.

Baked Pork Sirloin Chops with Mushroom Tarragon Sauce

(about 4 servings)

These pork sirloin chops are braised in the oven in an aromatic onion, mushroom and tarragon sauce. The meat becomes fork tender after spending about two hours in the oven. There's plenty of sauce which might be nice with mashed potatoes or rice.

2 lbs pork sirloin chops, about 1 inch thick
salt and freshly cracked black pepper
2 tbsp flour
1 tbsp butter
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 lb mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup sodium reduced chicken broth
2 tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped
2 tbsp heavy cream
salt and pepper, to taste


Sprinkle both sides of the pork sirloin chops generously with salt and pepper.

Place the flour on a plate and press both sides of the chops in the flour. Reserve any flour that is left over.

Heat the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and when it begins to bubble, add the chops. Brown both sides (they don't need to be cooked through), then place them onto a plate and set aside.

Reduce the heat slightly and add the onions and garlic to the pan. Using a wooden spoon, stir up the browned bits from the meat into the onion mixture. Cook until the onions have softened, then add the mushrooms. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring from time to time.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Sprinkle any remaining flour over the onion and mushroom mixture. Stir, then add the wine, chicken broth and tarragon. Simmer for about 4 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper, if needed. Stir in the cream and remove from heat.

Place half of the onion and mushroom mixture into a 9x13 inch dish (with lid). Spread that evenly over the bottom, then add the chops. Keep the chops in a single layer. Add the remaining onion and mushroom mixture and spread that evenly over the pork.

Cover and place into the oven. Bake for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender.

Mediterranean Green Beans Braised in Tomatoes

( 4 servings)

There's something very satisfying about braised green beans. For me in some respects they are close to the ultimate comfort food. Served with a bit of rice, is all I need.

Cooking the beans in an aromatic sauce of tomatoes and onions creates a dish that tastes rich and flavorful. The richest element here is the olive oil which you could easily reduce by half if using a non-stick pot.

Braised green beans are delicious served hot or at room temperature. I usually make this dish with dill and mint, however this time I swapped those out for fennel seeds, cardamom and coriander. Those flavors did not disappoint; they were an interesting and pleasing change.

1 tbsp olive oil

2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp crushed fennel seeds

1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp ground coriander
1 medium onion, chopped

14oz can diced tomatoes
1 lb green beans, trimmed (if using frozen, defrost first)
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a pot fitted with a lid.

Stir in the garlic, fennel seeds, cardamom and coriander. When the mixture becomes fragrant after 30 seconds or so, quickly stir in the onions. Cook until the onions become soft and translucent; about 5 minutes.

Stir in the diced tomatoes and their liquid. Cook for a minute or two, then stir in the green beans.

Cover the pot with a lid and reduce the heat to low. Cook for about 25-40 minutes, depending on how soft you like your green beans. Check halfway through and add a small amount of water if the beans appear too dry.

Taste and add salt and pepper, if needed.

Serve hot or at room temperature. These beans reheat really well, in case you decide to double the recipe.

Paprikás Csirke; Chicken Paprikash

(4 -5 servings)

There are those who insist lard is necessary when preparing chicken paprikash. My paternal grandmother who was Hungarian used lard exclusively in her kitchen. She would have used it in this dish.

Whenever I make chicken paprikash, I use skinless and boneless chicken thighs. I don't even bother frying them. I just lay the chicken over the vegetable mixture which has been sauteed in butter or olive oil. This time I used regular bone-in chicken pieces and I wanted to fry them over high heat in order to crisp up the skin. I used lard, curious if it would make a difference in terms of flavor. I only used a small amount; about two teaspoons or so because the skin rendered plenty of additional fat.

When the paprikash was finished I couldn't tell the chicken had been fried with lard, the flavor also didn't come through the following day when I reheated the leftovers. Perhaps I needed to use more lard, but I didn't see the point. I prefer using the least amount of fat or oil and chicken paprikash is often finished with sour cream which renders this dish plenty rich.

Whether you use lard or oil, chicken paprikash is easy to prepare and very delicious. It's often served with tiny dumplings called spätzle or noodles. I like it with rice.

6-8 chicken thighs, (about 3 lbs)
salt and pepper
up to 1 tbsp lard or coconut oil
1 very large yellow onion, chopped (about 1 lb)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 green or red bell pepper, chopped (seeds removed)
1 tbsp double concentrated tomato paste

3 tbsp sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tsp hot Hungarian paprika
2/3 cup chicken broth

1/2 tsp *tapioca flour (optional)
1/2 cup sour cream

Rinse and pat dry the chicken thighs. Trim off any excess fat or skin. Sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat the lard in a large pot (with lid) over medium-high heat. Carefully add the chicken thighs, skin side down in a single layer (you might have to do this in batches although mine all fit nice and snug) and fry until the skin is crispy and golden; about 4-8 minutes. Flip them over and fry another two minutes. Remove the chicken to a platter and set aside.

Drain off all but a teaspoon or two of fat from the pot.  Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onion and garlic.  Saute until the onion softens; about 5 minutes. Add the chopped bell pepper and cook another 5 minutes or until that has softened.

Stir in the tomato paste, paprika and chicken broth. The mixture will be very thick. Don't be tempted to add more broth, the sauce will thin out once the chicken has braised for a while. When the vegetable mixture begins to simmer, reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Place the reserved chicken on top, skin side up and cover the pot tightly with a lid and cook for about 1 to 1 1 /2 hours or until the chicken is very tender. I like to cook it until the meat is ready to fall off the bones.

Remove the chicken to a serving bowl and cover loosely with foil.

Combine the tapioca flour (if using) with the sour cream. * I like to add a small amount of starch because it keeps the sour cream from curdling if the temperature gets too high. If you decide to omit it, then take care to only heat the sauce through after stirring in the sour cream. Do not allow the sauce to simmer.

Temper the sour cream mixture by stirring in a few large spoonfuls of the hot sauce before adding the sour cream to the pot.

Cook over low heat while stirring until the sauce thickens slightly; about 3 minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning, if needed

Serve.

Braised 5 Spice Pork Tenderloin

(4 servings)

I added the rum on a whim after I opened the packet of 5 spice and noticed the wonderful citrusy undertones to this very fragrant mixture.

This braised pork tenderloin dish was easy to make and really delicious. I served it with steamed broccoli and a bit of rice.

1/4 cup low sodium tamari or soy sauce
2 tbsp rum, rice wine or water
2 tbsp water
1 tsp fresh ginger, minced
1 tsp honey
1 pinch red pepper flakes
2 tsp sesame oil
1 large clove garlic, minced or pressed
1 1/2 tsp 5 spice mix
1 1/2 lbs pork tenderloin

Combine the soy sauce, rum, water, ginger, honey and red pepper flakes in a small bowl or measuring cup. Set aside.

Combine the sesame oil with garlic and brush the entire piece of pork with it. Sprinkle the 5 spice powder evenly over the tenderloin and let it rest for about 30 minutes.

Heat a non-stick skillet with a tight fitting lid over a high flame. Add a small amount of sesame oil to the skillet and add the meat. Fry the pork tenderloin, turning it once, for about 1-2 minutes each side. Reduce the flame to medium-low.

Pour the sauce mixture into the skillet and cover with lid. Braise the meat for about 10-12 minutes, then turn the tenderloin over. Cover and braise for another 8-10 minutes, then begin checking the temperature. (Add a small amount of water if the liquid evaporates too quickly [The final sauce should be syrupy.]) Insert an instant read thermometer into the thickest part of the tenderloin. The internal temperature should read about 144°F-145°F when ready. Don't allow the temperature to climb higher than that as it will increase a degree or two while it rests.

Remove the tenderloin and place onto a cutting board. Let it rest for about 5 minutes, then cut into slices. Arrange the pork onto a serving platter. Spoon the braising sauce over the meat.

Serve.

Savory Chicken in Port Sauce

(about 4 servings)

This is a relatively simple chicken braise which is packed full of flavor. It's a great recipe for entertaining because once everything is in the pot you can leave it for an hour or so while you tend to other things. In the meantime your kitchen will fill with an amazing and inviting aroma as this tasty chicken dish cooks.

1 tbsp oil for frying, such as coconut
1 3/4 - 2 lb skinless and boneless chicken thighs, about 8 
salt and freshly cracked pepper
1 medium onion chopped, about 1 1/2 cups 
3-4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
1 large tomato, diced
2 tsp sweet Hungarian paprika
1 bay leaf
2/3 cup tawny port
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp apple cider vinegar
2-3 tbsp fresh parsley or cilantro, chopped

Heat the oil in a heavy pot with a tight fitting lid over a medium-high flame.

Sprinkle both sides of the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Fry them until they are browned. Remove from pot and place onto a large plate. Lower the flame.

Add the onion and garlic. Saute for about 5 minutes until the onions have softened. Stir in the diced tomato.

Return the chicken to the pot as well as any juices that might have accumulated. Sprinkle the paprika evenly over the chicken and add the bay leaf.

In a measuring cup combine the port, tomato paste, mustard and apple cider. Pour this over the chicken and onion mixture. Bring everything to a simmer, cover the pot with a lid and set the heat to low.

Cook for about 45-60 minutes or until the meat is tender.

Remove the chicken to a warm serving plate. Increase the heat and simmer the sauce until thickened; 3-5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed. Remove the bay leaf. Spoon the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley or cilantro and serve.

This braised chicken goes well with rice, roasted potatoes or buttered noodles.

Chicken Braised in Wine & Vinegar

(4 servings)

I'm very partial to braised dishes. I love the depth of  flavour that develops as well as the ease of making a simple meal.

In this case  boneless and skinless chicken thighs are cooked in a balsamic vinegar and red wine mixture. It still surprises me at times how delicious something can turn out, with so little effort.

This economical dish reheats really well. You might consider making extra for leftovers.

braised chicken
1 heaping tbsp cornstarch
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp freshly cracked pepper
2 lbs boneless and skinless chicken thighs
2 tbsp olive or coconut oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/3 cup shallots, minced
1 celery stalk, chopped or diced fine
1 carrot, chopped or diced fine
1/2 cup Balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 tbsp honey
1 tsp Harissa or 1/4-1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

polenta for serving, if desired

Combine the cornstarch, salt and pepper in a plastic bag. Add the chicken and toss until the thighs are evenly coated. Discard the remaining cornstarch mixture.

Heat the oil in a heavy pot with a tight fitting lid. Fry the chicken pieces until browned on one side, then remove them to a plate.

Lower the heat and add the garlic and shallots. Stir and scrape up the browned chicken bits as you cook the garlic and onion mixture for about 2-3 minutes. Stir in the chopped celery and carrot. Cook, stirring from time to time for about 5 minutes. Adjust the heat if needed to keep the mixture from burning.

Pour in the vinegar and wine. Stir in the honey and Harissa. Add the chicken pieces, keeping them all in one layer; fried sides up. Set the flame to the lowest setting and cover the pot. Cook for about 30 minutes.

Remove the lid and turn the chicken pieces over. Increase the heat a small amount and cook for another 10 minutes (lid off).

Remove the chicken to a warmed dish and increase the flame. Cook until the liquid has reduced by about one third.

Serve over polenta, if desired. Spoon the sauce over the chicken